Do Collagen Supplements Really Work?: Dermatologists Review the Evidence for Skin, Hair, and Nails



The use of collagen supplements for skin health has increased in popularity over recent years. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body and gives structure and resilience to the skin, joints, bones, and connective tissues. It is also the main component of hair and nails. Because natural collagen production declines with age, supplementation has been touted as a possible way to smooth wrinkles, thicken hair, and hasten nail growth.

But are these claims backed by any scientific evidence? In this article, we’ll dive into what experts and research say about the efficacy and safety of collagen supplements for skin health.


What are the basics of Collagen Supplementation?

Collagen supplements utilize collagen hydrolysate —which contains small collagen peptides optimized for absorption — to provide the building blocks for natural collagen production in one’s body. Hydrolyzed collagen comes from multiple sources:

1) Marine collagen: Skin/scales and bones of fish

2) Meat-based collagen: Eggs and other animal bone broth

3) Vegan collagen: Plant sources

Collagen supplements can be formulated into powders to mix into liquids, capsules, gummies, injections, protein bars, and more. Collagen supplements taken by mouth are in theory broken down into amino acids which are the building blocks of natural collagen production. However, it is difficult to guarantee what the body will use the amino acids for.

In fact, research has yet to confirm if taking collagen supplements can meaningfully increase collagen within skin and connective tissues once digested. Experts are also uncertain if modest boosts in blood amino acid levels lead to meaningful outcomes.

A recent paper by Rustad et al. from 2022 highlighted how the media spin on oral collagen supplementation has not necessarily been backed by robust research results.

  • Rustad AM, Nickles MA, McKenney JE, Bilimoria SN, Lio PA. Myths and media in oral collagen supplementation for the skin, nails, and hair: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Feb;21(2):438-443. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14567. Epub 2021 Oct 25. PMID: 34694676.


Do Collagen Supplements Improve Skin? What the Evidence Shows

One of the biggest alleged benefits of collagen supplements is reducing wrinkles and dryness for more youthful skin. Proponents claim collagen supplements can increase skin elasticity and hydration. But what does the current research show?

Clinical Research on Collagen Supplements for Skin: The Findings

Multiple clinical studies have investigated the effects of daily collagen supplementation on skin health with mixed results:

  • In one randomized clinical trial from 2014, 69 women took either a placebo or 2.5 grams of collagen hydrolysate or 5 grams of collagen hydrolysate once daily for 8 weeks. The collagen group showed statistically significant increased skin elasticity and moisture compared to placebo after 8 weeks.

    • Proksch E, Segger D, Degwert J, Schunck M, Zague V, Oesser S. Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(1):47-55. doi: 10.1159/000351376. Epub 2013 Aug 14. PMID: 23949208.

  • Another randomized controlled trial from 2020 used fish-derived hydrolyzed collagen (10 g daily) and found that participants in the collagen arm reported subjectively improvements to their skin wrinkling and elasticity. They also used subgroup analyses to show that women in the 45-54 age group had statistically significant improvement in cheek skin elasticity. However, as with all research there are very real concerns regarding the use of a subgroup analysis to demonstrate statistical significance. (Discussed in detail here: https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/nejmsr077003) 

    • Evans M, Lewis ED, Zakaria N, Pelipyagina T, Guthrie N. A randomized, triple-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel study to evaluate the efficacy of a freshwater marine collagen on skin wrinkles and elasticity. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Mar;20(3):825-834. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13676. Epub 2020 Sep 15. PMID: 32799362; PMCID: PMC8176521.

  • In one study published in March 2023 in patients of medium to medium-brown skin tone, hydrolyzed collagen was associated with a statistically significant increase in the density of the dermis (See their figure below). However, the product that was used is heterogeneous, containing 5g of hydrolyzed collagen 1 and 3, as well as 50 mg of HA and 80 mg of Vitamin C. While it contains collagen, we could not separate whether the effects of the increased dermal density were due to collagen, the other components, or a combination. 

    • Samadi A, Movaffaghi M, Kazemi F, Yazdanparast T, Ahmad Nasrollahi S, Firooz A. Tolerability and efficacy assessment of an oral collagen supplement for the improvement of biophysical and ultrasonographic parameters of skin in middle eastern consumers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Aug;22(8):2252-2258. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15700. Epub 2023 Mar 13. PMID: 36912494.

  • One of the largest studies is a systematic review and meta-analysis published in 2021 in the International Journal of Dermatology (see below). The authors found that across 19 studies on this topic encompassing 1125 participants (mostly women, 95%), hydrolyzed collagen was associated with reductions in wrinkling and improvement in skin elasticity and hydration after 90 days of use.

  • However, the studies included are extremely heterogeneous, utilizing a vast range of collagen (0.6 g to 12 g daily) across different studies. The collagen is also harvested from different sources and supplementation often contained other amino acids or peptides.

    • de Miranda RB, Weimer P, Rossi RC. Effects of hydrolyzed collagen supplementation on skin aging: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Int J Dermatol. 2021 Dec;60(12):1449-1461. Doi: 10.1111/ijd.15518. Epub 2021 Mar 20. PMID: 33742704.

  • Evidence also remains limited on collagen’s effects on cellulite, stretch marks, or atrophic acne scars. One randomized controlled trial with 105 participants demonstrated a statistically significant improvement on the appearance of cellulite after 6 months, but a closer examination of their data shows that the difference between the study group and the control group at 6 months and baseline was 0.29 vs 0.25, respectively. This means that the raw improvement in collagen score between the two groups at 6 months was a mere 0.04. Even at statistical significance, it begs the question of whether this is clinically improvement or evident. 

    • Schunck M, Zague V, Oesser S, Proksch E. Dietary Supplementation with Specific Collagen Peptides Has a Body Mass Index-Dependent Beneficial Effect on Cellulite Morphology. J Med Food. 2015 Dec;18(12):1340-8. Doi: 10.1089/jmf.2015.0022. Epub 2015 Nov 12. PMID: 26561784; PMCID: PMC4685482.

Overall, early research indicates collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity, but tangible anti-aging outcomes remain unclear.  These studies are often limited in the number of subjects and utilize subgroup analysis, which is prone to error. Additionally, many of the existing studies range in the amount of collagen and the source of the collagen (e.g. chicken, fish, vs other), and are often mixed with other ingredients which may be beneficial (vitamins, antioxidants, chondroitin sulfate, CoQ10). Larger, high-quality clinical trials are still needed to provide evidence that taking a collagen supplement can definitively improve the skin. 


Do Collagen Supplements Increase Collagen Within the Skin?

The question here is around dermal collagen in vivo, and whether there have been any studies which have linked the use of collagen supplements to developing thicker dermis or more well-developed collagen network in the medium to deeper layers of the skin.

  • We did not find any reliably conducted human studies where collagen supplementation was linked to increased levels of collagen synthesis in vivo in the human dermis.

  • However, we did discover a limited randomized controlled double-blind study from 2020 where the authors reported that supplementation with collagen plus Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) led to increased dermal density after 12 weeks of supplementation. This study is truly limited by the number of participants (17 in each arm). Having a limited number of subjects in a study would increase the likelihood of finding significant differences when there may be none. 

    • Žmitek K, Žmitek J, Rogl Butina M, Pogačnik T. Effects of a Combination of Water-Soluble CoenzymeQ10 and Collagen on Skin Parameters and Condition: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Double-Blind Study. Nutrients. 2020 Feb 27;12(3):618. doi: 10.3390/nu12030618. PMID: 32120787; PMCID: PMC7146335.

At this time, there does not seem to be enough evidence that collagen supplements meaningfully increase collagen protein levels within skin itself.


Can the Body Absorb and Use Supplemental Collagen?

How well absorbed collagen supplements are and whether the amino acids reach the skin also remain open questions needing further study:

  • Collagen peptides appear to be absorbed into the bloodstream after ingestion based on increased amino acid levels. But absorption efficiency may vary.

  • We lack data on how well the body directs absorbed amino acids specifically towards increasing dermal collagen. The collagen may be utilized for other bodily processes instead.

  • Conventionally sourced collagen creams are also unlikely to replenish collagen, as large collagen molecules cannot be absorbed through the skin. However, formulating micronized particles of collagen may allow penetration through the superficial epidermis. Yet, we do not know the clinical implications of this and cannot make a recommendation for topical collagen supplements at this time.

    • Lubart R, Yariv I, Fixler D, Lipovsky A. A Novel Facial Cream Based on Skin-penetrable Fibrillar Collagen Microparticles. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022 May;15(5):59-64. PMID: 35642230; PMCID: PMC9122277.

In summary, research has yet to conclusively show collagen supplements directly increase collagen levels within skin after absorption.


Do Collagen Supplements Strengthen Hair and Nails?

In addition to improving skin, collagen supplements are also promoted for boosting hair thickness and strength as well as nail growth and resilience. Here are the findings of our literature review.

What the Research Says About Collagen and Hair

Some preliminary research suggests supplemental collagen could have benefits for thinning hair:

  • One study published in June of 2023 (hot off the press) was a randomized clinical trial, where patients with different forms of hair loss were randomized to receive a supplement versus placebo for 12 weeks. The supplement contained marine hydrolyzed collagen at 300 mg/dose, in addition to other amino acids plus iron and selenium. While the study found there to be improvement, it is difficult to attribute all the effort to the hydrolyzed collagen when there are other ingredients included in the supplement, ingredients such as iron which have been known to be beneficial for certain types of hair loss.

    • Milani M, Colombo F; GFM-O-Trial Investigators Group: Chiara Baraldo (Padova), Mauro Barbareschi (Milano), Paolo Chieco (Ruvo di Puglia), Laura Colonna (Roma), Mandel Victor Desmond (Modena), Maria Cristina Fiorucci (Genova). Efficacy and tolerability of an oral supplement containing amino acids, iron, selenium, and marine hydrolyzed collagen in subjects with hair loss (androgenetic alopecia, AGA or FAGA or telogen effluvium). A prospective, randomized, 3-month, controlled, assessor-blinded study. Skin Res Technol. 2023 Jun;29(6):e13381. doi: 10.1111/srt.13381. PMID: 37357646; PMCID: PMC10240182.

While promising, overall current evidence is heterogeneous and remains insufficient to conclusively determine benefits for human hair. Larger scale, cleanly designed trials are still needed.

Collagen Supplements for Nail Health

Collagen supplements are often marketed for strengthening brittle nails and preventing cracking and peeling. But just like for hair, current research is limited:

  • One of the few studies found collagen supplementation over 6 months increased nail growth and reduced brittleness versus placebo.

    • Hexsel D, Zague V, Schunck M, Siega C, Camozzato FO, Oesser S. Oral supplementation with specific bioactive collagen peptides improves nail growth and reduces symptoms of brittle nails. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2017 Dec;16(4):520-526. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12393. Epub 2017 Aug 8. PMID: 28786550.

However, it's important to note that in the study above, there was no blinding and no control arm, rendering the study prone to bias. Bias can occur both on part of the patients, who recorded their results subjectively, and the clinicians who knew that the patients were all on the supplement at their follow-up visit.


Are Collagen Supplements Safe? Overview of Possible Side Effects

When taken orally in standard doses, collagen supplements appear to be well tolerated and safe for most people. However, keep in mind that supplements are not always regulated by the FDA and side effects are possible:

  • Certain individuals may be allergic to common collagen sources like eggs or fish. Those with food allergies should use caution with supplements.

  • Some people report temporary side effects like indigestion, heartburn, and feeling overly full when starting collagen.

  • There’s minimal data on collagen’s safety with long-term use over many years. 

  • Collagen supplements may interact with certain medications. Anyone on regular prescriptions should consult their physician prior to using collagen supplements.

Speak with a healthcare professional if experiencing concerning symptoms while taking collagen. Always inform your physician of any supplements you take.


The Bottom Line: Do Collagen Supplements Really Work?

Too soon to tell. While evidence exists, it is mixed and difficult to extrapolate to the population at large. As with many things, speak with your physician before considering adding these to your regimen. Big picture takeaways:

  • A large proportion of the studies we reviewed demonstrated a beneficial effect of collagen supplementation on skin wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration. 

  • These studies show hints and potential that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration, elasticity, hair growth, and nail appearance. But evidence remains limited both in number of studies/participants, and the quality of these studies.

  • Unanswered questions remain about collagen supplements’ absorption, body distribution, and ability to directly increase collagen within skin, hair follicles, and nails.

  • Overall, regardless of their true benefit on anti-aging, collagen supplements appear safe in standard doses for most healthy adults. But long-term safety remains unclear.

  • What is needed is a large-scale, high-quality placebo-controlled human trial with less heterogeneity in the intervention used (e.g. source and amount of collagen) to truly demonstrate meaningful clinical results from collagen supplementation.

  • What is collagen?

    Collagen is a type of protein that is naturally found in our bodies. It is the main component of connective tissues, such as skin, bones, tendons, and cartilage.

    How does collagen benefit the body?

    Collagen has many important functions in the body, including providing structure and support to tissues, promoting skin elasticity, and aiding in wound healing.

    Can collagen be found in other sources besides our bodies?

    Yes, collagen can be derived from various sources, including animals (such as bovine or marine collagen) and plants.

    What is the difference between collagen and hyaluronic acid?

    Collagen and hyaluronic acid are both important components of the skin, but they serve different purposes. Collagen provides structural support, while hyaluronic acid helps the skin retain moisture.

    Can collagen be produced by the body naturally?

    Yes, our bodies can produce collagen naturally. However, the production of collagen decreases as we age, which can lead to signs of aging, such as wrinkles and sagging skin.

    Do collagen supplements work?

    At this time, there is mixed evidence to support the use of oral collagen supplements for anti-aging purposes. While taking a collagen supplement may not be dangerous, the data on its bioavailability and incorporation into the dermis to support skin aging is still up for debate.

    Are collagen supplements safe?

    In general, collagen supplements are considered safe for most people when taken as directed. The collagen supplements come in many different forms, and you should always discuss with your healthcare professional before starting any new dietary supplement.

    Are there different types of collagen?

    Yes, there are several types of collagen found in the body, including type I, type II, and type III. Each type plays a specific role and is found in different tissues.

  • We are a group of dermatology residents and attending physicians based in Boston, MA. Our team of Ivy League-trained dermatologists is demystifying the cosmeceutical industry by offering unbiased, scientifically supported reviews of skincare products. We are extremely passionate about skincare and making it accessible to all through education. We value integrity, practicality, and inclusivity. No sponsorships were received for the products prior to testing; we feel strongly about providing un-biased reviews. After blogs are published, following the links in this blog post may result in commission.

    Dr. David Li is a recent graduate from the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. He is now in private practice as a procedural dermatologist in Downtown Boston where he offers skin cancer screenings, skin cancer surgeries, and laser and cosmetic rejuvenation. He has published more than 25 peer-reviewed research articles, is active as an advisor for multiple early-stage companies, and is an angel investor in the healthcare technology space. In his free time, he enjoys running to stay fit, cooking, and playing with his Australian shepherd, Laika.  

    Dr. Jacqueline Stevens is currently a resident in the Harvard Combined Dermatology Program. She completed her undergraduate studies and MD-PhD at the University of Virginia with a PhD in microbiology, immunology, and infectious disease. Jacqueline has interest in cutaneous oncology, melanoma, and dermatologic surgery. She has published work on the basic science of inflammation at skin barriers, dermatologic diseases, and systems used to classify squamous cell skin cancer. In her free time, she enjoys skiing, hanging with her rescue pup, and the outdoors.

    Dr. Olivia Davies is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. Her dermatology interests include inpatient dermatology, complex-medical dermatology and medical education. She enjoys exploring the intersection between medicine and media — with past experiences that include rotating through the ABC News Medical Unit, publishing a graphic perspective in the New England Journal, and serving as a poetry editor for Intima: A Journal of Narrative Medicine. When she’s not learning or working, she can be found making cheese plates for friends, sipping a warm cup of coffee, or solving the newest NYT crossword puzzle.

    Dr. Nelson Ugwu is a dermatology resident at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program. His clinical interests include general dermatology, skin of color and skin cancer prevention. Nelson has discovered mutations that cause skin diseases, as well as new treatments for skin conditions. In his free time, Nelson enjoys weightlifting, playing soccer and trying new recipes.

    Dr. Arash Mostaghimi is an associate professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, the director of the inpatient dermatology consult service, and co-director of the Complex Medical Dermatology Fellowship at Brigham & Women’s Hospital. He is also the principal investigator of the Mostaghimi Lab, where he leads a diverse group of physicians and researchers to study alopecia areata, an autoimmune hair loss condition which afflicts his daughter. In addition to his research, he is an advisor to multiple companies and is an associate editor of JAMA Dermatology.

 
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